Nikki DeGidio’s celiac diagnosis ushered her out of her role making pasta at Stoneburner and, eventually, into a relaxed cafe on Sunset Hill. The menu takes a pass on dairy, legumes, refined sugar, and most grains—but definitely not meat (or nuts). What does that leave diners? Plenty. DeGidio channels her chef training to make canny swaps, like sweet potato and cauliflower falafel, a veggie noodle spin on chicken pho, or the thinnest slice of roast sweet potato standing in for toast in a hearty brunch tartine. Other dishes are simply solid renditions of combos that sidestep these dietary concerns entirely, like short ribs or steamed clams in broth. Lucky Santo’s Whole 30, keto, and paleo-compliant dishes drive a lot of its fan base, but the list of cider and natural wine (and the counter full of surprisingly legit baked sweets) ensure clean eating can still be fun.