The kitschy Chop Suey—typefaced signage just off California Avenue recalls evenings in front of the TV plucking beef and broccoli and chow mein from cardboard containers. Takeout is what you get, even if you’re dining at the snug counter that seats maybe eight. Orders arrive in plastic boxes in lieu of plates, hiding hearty dumplings like the kimchi mandu, the size of a Hostess fruit pie and filled with intensely savory pork. Or maybe the pork and chive dumpling, thick as a hockey puck and pan fried. There’s nothing subtle on the menu. But the people waiting in line don’t want subtle. They’re looking for the unctuous comforts of street food.