If a bakery is an exercise in eating with your eyes first, then Cubes Baking Company is the kind of workout we can get behind. It’s all too easy to—with the unchecked voracity of a blue, cookie-obsessed puppet—pillage the shelves of this Wallingford bakeshop, a place where the likes of cupcakes and scones take on a boxy silhouette. Indeed the baked goods here are square. But don’t get it twisted; they’re not the slightest bit boring. Half of the treats inside Cubes are inspired by the pastries of owner and baker Kevin Moulder’s heritage and childhood. He grew up in San Antonio, where panaderias bless nearly every corner with Mexican goods—conchas, or seashell-shaped sweet breads; marranitos, or cookies that look like little pigs; and a puff pastry filled with fruit that takes the form of a soup pot, a cazuela. He’s taken a bit of nostalgia and baked it into a quadratic snack.