Early PR pegging this luxurious project as the last word in glamour didn’t do Circadia any favors; this is down-to-earth Seattle after all. So good thing its kitchen, helmed by Garrett Melkonian (Mamnoon), traffics in stealth rusticity: whole carrots served with curds and smoky Argan oil, a miraculously unfussy paupiette of sole, a minestrone so fine it transcends its humble origins altogether. The more complex or Continental a conception, the likelier it is to buckle under the weight of its components, so best to keep it simple while enjoying one of Seattle’s grandest restaurant spaces: a teal-and-champagne tableau of half-moon banquettes and drippy chandeliers, where what isn’t glittering is tufted, napped, or mirrored. A lit-for-romance lounge in back features a more casual menu (with a damn fine chili dog) and incandescent cocktails. What is the perfect stage set for dressing up in fact has no dress code, so you’ll see it all.