Carmine’s Bellevue outpost is unabashedly old-school, which feels exciting and new in our current counter service reality. Jacketed servers brandish platters of that veal scaloppine and apportion shared plates, then lavish it all with showers of Parmesan before unobtrusively filling your wineglass. The late Carmine Smeraldo founded the original power dining powerhouse on First Avenue; his sons and wife burnished his luxurious legacy with the second location in downtown Bellevue, which feels more wholly itself than even the original. The menu—rich rigatoni bolognese, hefty steaks and chops—rings familiar, but there’s plenty of nuance in these time-tested dishes, like a delicate pesto coating fat prawns atop fettuccine or a peppery snap to the cioppino.