On weekdays, Sun and Erin Hong put out a sign-up sheet for three daily seatings at their eight-stool lunch counter, hidden in the heart of Capitol Hill’s Chophouse Row. That sheet can fill up fast, which makes perfect sense. For around $30, Sun delivers three impeccable hand rolls straight to your fingertips—eat them fast for maximum crackle on that nori—plus a few extra bites that borrow flavors from Japan, Korea, and Sun’s background in kitchens like Matt Dillon’s Bar Ferdinand. This singular concept cracked the code on a counter that’s seen a few failed projects. And let’s not forget the astonishing value. By Tae’s two-person operation means hours can sometimes vary, but news of an occasional “drinking hour” surfaces on Instagram whenever the Hongs muster extra energy.