A year after Renee Erickson’s restaurant group acquired the former Saint Helens in Laurelhurst, she whitewashed those dark ceilings, returned the fare to its French bistro roots, and christened the new space after her mother. This new iteration exudes Ericksonian charm, from the crisp blue-and-black banquettes to the expanded (equally crisp) wine list. The menu mixes classic chicken liver mousse and Parisian-style gnocchi with Northwest riffs like a halibut tartare sparked with yuzu. Erickson’s beloved pork chop from her Boat Street days resurfaces here, along with many happy memories of impeccably textured pork. One thing that hasn’t changed—the exceedingly charming patio, which still opens right onto the Burke-Gilman trail.