Matt Dillon’s Chophouse Row wine bar and bottle shop highlight produce fresh from his own farm: perhaps line-caught cured halibut on kelp with wild plum and shishito pepper, perhaps grilled trout with clay-pot rice, spicy radish, and shiitakes. And even the food is really just in service to the wine, curated with intelligence to be a solo act in a glass or the centerpiece of a meal. Mostly this wood-hewn enclosure of angles and air is an uncommonly fine place to be, delivering the world’s most sophisticated permutation of cozy.