Two captains of Seattle’s higher-end dining industry joined forces to embrace our new era of viaduct-free waterfront with a polished destination restaurant a block from Pike Place Market. Credit El Gaucho head Chad Mackay for Aerlume’s understated polish (a coat check, superb service) and chef Jason Wilson for dishes that zero in on the specific marvels of each Northwest season, while also appealing to the broadest possible swath of diners. Sometimes those visions harmonize, whether its ssam-like dungeness crab lettuce wraps, thick slabs of king salmon gravlax with whipped creme fraiche, or an excellent spread of fried chicken. Other dishes suffer from issues sure to bum you out when entrée prices hover in the mid-40s. But, man—that view. Aerlume’s location and pedigree make it a de facto destination restaurant. What you come here for is another matter entirely.