In my post last week about the difference between Bon Appetit and Gourmet , I neglected to mention the other food-related magazines I subscribe to: Sunset (STOP LAUGHING, I can hear you) and Cooks Illustrated .

Cooks is another one of those magazines that constantly confounds and frustrates, for completely different reasons than Bon Appetit : Its faux-science-experiment "and JUST when I was about to give up, it hit me: Cornmeal!" tone can be grating, but damned if its recipes, even ones for basics like risotto or oven-roasted vegetables, don't work like a charm.

Case in point: This summer vegetable gratin, published in 2008 under the headline "Rescuing Summer Vegetable Gratin." (Is it drowning?) Anyway, the secret is making sure all the vegetables are as dry as possible, and giving it a blast of heat after a long stint in a slow oven. The result is a super-concentrated distillation of summer: Sweet caramelized onions, tart red tomatoes, creamy slow-cooked summer squash, and the salty bite of a bread-crumb-Parmesan-shallot topping.

FoodNerd brought to you by Kim Ricketts Book Events .

Summer Vegetable Gratin

Adapted from Cooks Illustrated

Ingredients
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

2 pounds mixed zucchini and summer squash, ends trimmed and sliced crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices

2 teaspoons table salt

1 1/2 pounds ripe tomatoes (3 to 4 large), sliced 1/4 inch thick

2 medium sweet (not storage) onions, halved lengthwise and sliced thin pole to pole (about 3 cups)

3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 large garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme leaves
1 large slice white sandwich bread , torn into quarters
2  ounces Parmesan cheese , grated (about 1 cup)
2 medium shallots , minced (about 1/4 cup)
1/4 cup chopped fresh basil leaves

Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Brush 13- by 9-inch baking dish with 1 tablespoon oil; set aside.

Toss zucchini and summer squash slices with 1 teaspoon salt in large bowl; transfer to colander set over bowl. Let stand until zucchini and squash release at least 3 tablespoons of liquid, about 45 minutes. Arrange slices on triple layer paper towels; cover with another triple layer paper towels. Firmly press each slice to remove as much liquid as possible.

Meanwhile, place tomato slices in single layer on double layer paper towels and sprinkle evenly with 1/2 teaspoon salt; let stand 30 minutes. Place second double layer paper towels on top of tomatoes and press firmly to dry tomatoes.

Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onions, remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper; cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened and dark golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Set onions aside.

Combine garlic, 2 tablespoons oil, remaining 1/2 teaspoon pepper, and thyme in small bowl. In large bowl, toss zucchini and summer squash in half of oil mixture, then arrange in greased baking dish. Arrange caramelized onions in even layer over squash. Slightly overlap tomato slices in single layer on top of onions. Spoon remaining garlic-oil mixture evenly over tomatoes. Bake until vegetables are tender and tomatoes are starting to brown on edges, 40 to 45 minutes.

Meanwhile, process bread in food processor until finely ground, about 10 seconds. (You should have about 1 cup crumbs.) Combine bread crumbs, Parmesan, and shallots in medium bowl. Remove baking dish from oven and increase heat to 450 degrees. Sprinkle bread-crumb mixture evenly on top of tomatoes. Bake gratin until bubbling and cheese is lightly browned, 5 to 10 minutes. Sprinkle with basil and let sit at room temperature 10 minutes before serving.

FoodNerd brought to you by Kim Ricketts Book Events .