Most Midwest-inspired restaurants rely heavily on the draw of nostalgia, leaning into every “ope” and piling each hotdish high with tater tots. Doing anything less risks a descent into the uncanny valley between true Midwest and a cheese-heavy Applebee’s knockoff. Fireside Burien rejects that idea, with Ritz-cracker-crusted walleye fish fries and wood paneling that evokes but doesn’t imitate Grandpa’s Sheboygan basement.

Though less inherently Midwestern, the chicken pot pie best shows off the kitchen’s skill at turning comfort food into something cozy chic. The wide, flat shape evens out the all-important crust-to-filling ratio. A heavy hand with the leeks, a sprinkle of herbs on top, and the rainbow of corn, carrots, and peas brighten the dish without detracting from its hug-like heft. A precise checkerboard of cross-hatching adds texture without lumpiness and guides the spoon through the flaky crust.

The Pacific Northwest and Midwest share Scandinavian roots and a distaste for fanciness, but Fireside’s choices in gussying up its chicken pot pie show a nuance and sophistication rarely associated with the country’s rotund middle, justifying the effort with every crispy-crusted bite.