Nacho Mama’s Fry Bread Cafe serves breakfast with the generous warmth and sassy spirit of a sitcom diner. Owner Debra LeComb pours coffee and chats with customers sitting down to the Delridge restaurant’s titular nachos and fry bread. But sticking to those stars means missing out on a special dish, listed without description under the breakfast side dishes section: wojapi parfait.

The fry bread that stands in here for tortillas in the taco, bread in the cheesesteak, bun of the burger, and the biscuit with gravy comes from recent Native American cuisine. Wojapi, the thick berry sauce at the center of the parfait, goes back much further, long before the arrival of Europeans, when it was mainly made by the Lakota people.

At Nacho Mama’s, LeComb makes it by cooking down blackberries, raspberries, blueberries, strawberries, and—when she can find them—the traditional chokecherries. The fruit condenses all day with only honey added to it, and the result is chunky and just barely sweet. The large dollop on top of granola and yogurt in the wojapi parfait swirls the whole bowl into a brilliant berry-stained breakfast. And one just light enough to tack on a side order of fry bread to round out the meal.