The spirit made from distilled white wine dates back to the mid-16th century, when Dutch traders came down to southwest France in search of that sought-after commodity of salt. While they were there, they looked for anything else they might want to bring back, and of course discovered the wine. (When in France, right?) Unfortunately, wine didn’t always transport well during the long voyages. They tried distilling it once, then twice, before hitting on something just right (a process later refined by French distillers known as “distillation Charentaise”). The resulting spirit stood the test of travel and taste.

 

That early product evolved into Cognac as we know it today, which is produced only in the Cognac region of France under a specific set of guidelines. Although the appellation has strict rules, producers do have the flexibility to craft subtly nuanced spirits that reflect their house style.

 

All Cognac is aged in oak casks, but there are decisions around the barrel toast that affect the final product. A longer toasting imparts smoky and spicy notes, while a lighter toast provides fruitiness and a slight bitterness. The cask’s wood grain size matters, too, as a wider grain allows for greater penetration of liquid into oak during the aging process, adding more structure and tannin. (The whole aging-in-a-barrel bit was something of a happy accident. Back in the day, they used to store everything in barrels when moving from place to place, and “eventually they realized time in a barrel affects the spirit in a very positive way,” says Adam Robinson, a Cognac educator and the owner of Deadshot in Portland.)

 

Cognac can be created from six varietals of low-sugar, high-acidity grapes—primarily Ugni Blanc—that grow in the Cognac region. After these are fermented and twice distilled, the result is known as an eau-de-vie. It’s placed in an oak barrel and ages for at least two years but possibly decades, waiting to be joined with other eaux-de-vie into a signature blend. “The master blender of each Cognac house truly is the artist that paints the final product that goes into the bottle,” Robinson says.

 

The letters on each bottle of Cognac tell you how old the youngest eau-de-vie in the blend is:

•VS: 2 years old

•VSOP: 4 years old

•XO: 10 years old

 

Because Cognac has so many different styles and flavor profiles, it’s a versatile spirit that both stands on its own and gets along well with others. “There is a perception that Cognac is meant to be enjoyed just neat, but it makes amazing cocktails,” Robinson says. In fact, many of the most popular drinks pre-Prohibition were made with Cognac.