Not everyone’s a fan of my Orfeo review in this month’s Seattle Met.

Orfeo is the new enterprise of the folks who brought us Blueacre Seafood and Steelhead Diner—and, like those restaurants, it aims a straight pitch at out-of-towners.

How can you tell? Huge space. Crowdpleaser menu. Little discernible vision from the kitchen. In short, Orfeo is generic. Tourists often wind up in these places because hotel concierges—whose job it is to study up on the scene and know what restaurants are out there—send them. The more generic a place, after all, the more pleasing it’s likely to be to a greater number of folks.

However! If you find yourself at Orfeo, one dish rises above the rest as pretty darn good. Which one? Find out here.