Move over, Little Uncle. That Capitol Hill Thai food stall proved that all you need is a well-traveled cook and a wide spot in the sidewalk to peddle destination Asian food. Say hello to Kedai Makan, a farmers market vendor that found its own teensy kitchen (no tables, no seats) along the rise up Olive Way. Order on the sidewalk, and through the red Dutch door comes swoony, crisp roti canai with curry, a bronzed and crackling nasi gorengtangy with brine and edged with fire, and a rotating menu of other Malaysian thrills—almost all under $10. It’s open late (2:30am weekends)—but don’t go calling this sumptuous and careful cuisine drunk food.
Published: June 2013