The pasta station at Cuoco.

As was mentioned in this post re: Tom Douglas’s SLU coup, Kathryn Robinson dedicates her most recent review to TD’s Terry Ave pasta house, Cuoco.

It’s Douglas’s 15th venture and “visually it may be the showpiece of his entire collection,” the Seattle Met critic decides. Though some of the pastas were “sticky, even gummy,” Robinson does discover two dishes she likes: a Yukon gold ­gnocchi and lamb-stuffed ravioli. In the bistecca—“a major romp for the palate”—she tastes Douglas’s visionary flair, but the plate wasn’t enough to salvage Cuoco from what she deems a lack of originality: “Cuoco feels derivative; as if Douglas cast his hungry eye around town cherry-picking concepts he admired.”

For more, read the full Cuoco review.