A Box of Chocolates From Top West Coast Chefs

Theo’s Chef Series features seven chocolates from West Coast chefs.
As you may recall from our Food Lovers Guide, Fremont-based chocolate company Theo has been inviting James Beard winners to its kitchens to collaborate on some candies.
Well, the results are inside this box, a selection of seven chocolate creations from seven West Coast chefs.
I always associate San Francisco chef “Offal” Chris Consentino with that episode of No Reservations in which he cooked a very gutsy feast of entrails and testicles. So when I bit into his candy, I half expected a pig’s tail to spring out. Nothing of the kind. His “agro” dolce brittle has caper, currant, and pinenut with a sprinkling of rasped unroasted cacao bean on top. Not sure I got the caper, but wow. This chocolate is sweet, then savory, then a little spicy/nutty. Amazing. It’s one of my three favorites in the collection, along with the work of two Portland chefs: A carrot caramel from Gabriel Rucker of Le Pigeon and an Armagnac prune ganache and green peppercorn caramel from Naomi Pomeroy of Beast. That last one, made with Armagnac-soaked prunes and punctuated by a piquant pow of green peppercorn, is a total showstopper.
Lark chef Johnathan Sundstrom’s pine resin ganache brought back my tree-climbing childhood; eating it is like wiping your mouth with a hand covered in dried pine sap, only now the sap has a shell of chocolate. There’s also a candied beet pate du fruit and almond praline from Holly Smith (Cafe Juanita), a tamarind lime chili caramel from Maria Hines (Tilth), and a huckleberry pate du fruit and cinnamon basil white ganache from Jerry Traunfeld (Poppy).
Some of these chocolates you will find to be crazy good. Others you will find to be simply crazy. But if you’re big into flavor, it’s worth throwing down $37 for a box ($15 of it goes to Food Lifeline). Buy here.