You’ve heard the buzz about Spice Room, the new Thai-and-then-some joint along the Columbia City strip? Sitting in one of its broad booths within silky mosquito-netting sheers—sky-blue wall on one side, Seattle brick on the other—sucking down a stiff tropical cocktail…this is one joint that whisks you away.

The food? A giddy romp through Thailand, with stops in China and Southeast Asia besides, for a solid tamarind phad Thai, a fragrant garlic-infused deep-fried whole tilapia, a feisty and fathomless tom yum goong soup. The best way to experience it is to place yourself in a waiter’s good hands and let him have his way with you.

Particularly if that waiter is Manish. Gently authoritative, wryly humorous, thoroughly versed in every nuance of every dish, thoughtfully aware of the children’s needs…this guy is a maestro of service. With a few deft questions he sized up our sizable party, made a few suggestions, graciously accepted a few of our tweaks—then presented dish after elegant dish adding up to a stunner of a feast.

With a mystic combination of smarts and intuition he deciphered what we wanted most, then made it happen. “You’ve been a great waiter,” one in our party told him at the end. “Would you consider being my life coach?”