Yum

Yum of the Week

First in an Occasional Series

By Kathryn Robinson January 20, 2009

So The Tablehopper popped into Queen City Grill the other night, having heard raves about the halibut cheeks currently in season for, oh, about 20 more minutes. Found the halibut cheeks; didn’t find the Yum of the Week.

Where the moist succulence should have been was an unfortunate texture, more watery and stringy. A smoky tomato coulis was fine but not redemptive. Alas.

I took a different friend’s advice the next night and hied myself to the newish King Creole Louisiana Gumbo and BBQ (2908 E Cherry, Central District, 206-420-5584). There I sampled some okay ribs (in a very sweet barbecue sauce), an alright shrimp po’boy (apparently more will be coming to the menu soon)—and a seafood gumbo that made The Tablehopper fall to her knees and weep for the sheer joy of gratification at last. Yum of the Week had been found!

The texture is thicker than most, the fire leagues more complex, the okra consistency (who am I to call it slime?) more delectable, and the crab meat and big bursting shrimp beautifully cooked and much more amply portioned. Served over rice, it makes a full and filling meal. To call it the best gumbo in Seattle is not enough; indeed, it barely qualifies as praise at all.

No, The Tablehopper hereby pronounces King Creole’s seafood gumbo the best she has tasted this side of the Mason-Dixon line.

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