Okay, so it’s an acronym for Bold Original Kitchen Artistry—but don’t hold that against this restaurant in the new Hotel 1000 at First & Madison. Bar nibbles here are fiercely munchable, alongside hotel guests and the usual urban prowlers in a glossy, curvaceous room with a glass bamboo sculpture centerpiece and a back bar whose shifting lights pull off a mesmerizing aurora borealis impersonation.

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