Clever Bottle is a wine bar entirely appropriate for the present era: it’s simple, creatively conceived, living within its means.

There is no liquor here, just wine (mostly Washington, fairly priced), beer, and mixed drinks made with wine and beer. Ambiance is achieved via glass bottles backlit by votive candles in small globular enclosures—more affordable, I suspect, than those ubiquitous Glassy Baby.

The food is sourced from nearby Pike Place Market, and choices do not require a lot of thought or negotiation. You have four (not counting three desserts), and the fourth option is really just a combination of the prior three. This would be the Market Tour Plate ($7): two cheeses, crackery bread, dried fruit, a scattering of almonds, and a wee dollop of honey. As cheese plates go, it’s rather perfunctory. Don’t be surprised to find that you don’t mind very much at all.

Clever Bottle does not seek to wow you with truffled mac and cheese or fish-bowl wine goblets or inscrutable tasting notes on the menu. It’s not that kind of wine bar. What it offers is an agreeable venue for quiet conversation augmented by engrossing street views, friendly service, and snacks ample enough to see you through to supper. Maybe, if you’re feeling saucy, you’ll opt for a champagne cocktail, a juicy Bellini, or a slice of cheesecake. What we are discussing, here, is not a bar that wants to change your life, but rather one that aims to improve upon your day. I think you’ll enjoy it.

With thanks to food blogger Allecia, who first steered me towards Clever Bottle.