Being a rabid devotee of the old Vios, I checked out the new Vios the other night. You know, the one at the corner of 65th and 20th in Ravenna, at Third Place Books.

Same exuberant Greek food. Same come-one-come-all—we even want your snot-nosed children!—welcome. (Go downstairs to the ski-lodgy pub to avoid them, if necessary. The menu’s the same down there.) Same careful, sweet service.

And same zingy surprises. To wit, a dip called kopanisti: sheep’s milk feta, roasted red pepper, and hot pepper. The color alone is splendid—a rich coral red—but go on, dredge some pita through it. (Some warm, chewy, pillowy pita.) Go on.

The feta creaminess registers first, in the form of some hella heavenly mouthfeel. Then the flavor, a happy lovechild of tangy feta and the fathomless roasted pepper. Then: ZING! A bossy little hot pepper spank.

We also had noble hummous and a green olive tapenade, enriched with pinenuts. But oh, that kopanisti. “I want to take a bath in this,” moaned my companion.