My big fat Greek deli: A festive family room of a spot importing all the community and color of the Greek marketplace to the St. Joe’s neighborhood of North Capitol Hill and the Ravenna commercial strip. Walls drenched in the hues of olive trees and the wine-dark sea, lilting bouzouki music, long communal tables, a generously stocked play area for the kids, a deli counter, imported olive oils and pastas for sale, a staff of large-hearted employees—it all adds up to an ambience of irresistible warmth, against which the sandwiches, meze plates, vegetable salads, and meat dishes simply shine. The grilled and pita-wrapped chicken souvlaki, draped in bright tzatziki, is notable, as are the more upmarket dinners. This owner founded Broadway’s El Greco; here as there, he manages to infuse Greek classics with his own distinctive flourishes and consistently make it all taste inevitable and comforting. All that…and retsina too.