THE IT’S-ABOUT-TIME REVIVAL of Broadway kicks off with the recasting of its best restaurant. Say farewell to El Greco, recalling those terrific Mediterranean suppers and weekend brunches worth standing in line for, and greet Table 219, where the same owners have imported a new chef and nudged dinners in the direction of contemporary comfort food. Tiny red ramekins of mac and cheese arrive all gooey with truffle-oiled mushrooms or caramelized onions; nachos come topped with duck confit alongside a pot of silken Saint André cheese sauce for pouring; desserts run to the sorts of confections—pot de crème s’mores—dieting disasters are made of. The early menu reveals a seamlessness between apps and mains that reflects the way young urbanites want to eat now, and a light remodel of the narrow space imbues a more modern aesthetic, with high-backed wood booths and new light fixtures. Better yet? The owners (who also have Geraldine’s Counter in Columbia City) have left weekend brunch alone, down to the legendary overnight French toast. They’re no fools.