Le Gourmand, Sambar to Close
A pioneering laboratory of Northwest cuisine says adieu June 2.
Posted by: Allecia Vermillion on Feb 09, 2012 at 11:10AM
10 Comments
June 2 will be the last day of business for Le Gourmand, the pioneering restaurant that has stood on NW Market Street for 27 years, as well as its adjacent cocktail den Sambar.
Calling someone out of the blue and inquiring into various personal and business affairs is not my favorite part of this job. But when I reached chef-owner Bruce Naftaly this morning, he sounded downright excited. You see, Naftaly and his wife and business partner Sara are very hands-on. So much so that there’s no taking the night off and leaving the kitchen in the hands of a sous chef. Bruce Naftaly says he has cooked every dinner Le Gourmand has served, except for a few weeks eight years ago when he landed in the hospital. Dining at his restaurant “is like having people coming into your studio."
That pace, that schedule, get rather tiring.
“It’s wonderful and passionate and intense,” says Naftaly, “but you can’t do anything else.”
After Le Gourmand and Sambar bid Seattle farewell in June, the chef plans to finally write that cookbook he’s been planning for a decade or two, and continue teaching classes. Sara is interested in pursuing a bakery, and plans to work on a cocktail book with longtime Sambar barman Jay Kuehner. Also high on the couple’s to-do list: Spending more time with their son.
When Naftaly opened Le Gourmand back in 1985, his concept was a bold experiment for the time—classic French fare, made with seasonal, locally sourced Northwest ingredients. Today, the farm-to-table concepts he helped pioneer are practically gospel to the current generation of chefs, many of whom were born after the restaurant opened. When the Naftalys opened Sambar in 2003, no bars “were handling cocktails like you would an haute French sauce,” says Naftaly. Now the spirited experimentation espoused by Kuehner and other bartenders is all but expected when Seattleites go out for cocktails.
And while the economic downturn and the current trend toward casual dining have affected the Naftalys’ bottom line, Bruce says the decision was personal rather than financial.
So, Seattle, you have little more than three months to make a final visit to Le Gourmand. Starting in March the restaurant will offer a farewell menu featuring the greatest hits of nearly three decades. “I’m still extremely passionate about the whole thing, and I want to go out while I’m still feeling that way,” says Naftaly.
Tags: Closings, Seattle Restaurant Closings, Le Gourmand, Sambar, Jay Kuehner, Bruce Naftaly, Sara Naftaly
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!
This is sad news. I feel like I was just told a dear friend got a new fantastic job in a foreign country. I am happy for their new adventures, but will miss them dearly. There is no other bar like Sambar and no other bartender like Jay. I hope to stay connected and wish them all. Thank you for setting the standard of great dinning in Seattle.
Wishing Bruce and Sara the best of luck in everything they do next, and I can’t wait to see the cookbook. Still, sad to hear the news!
This was my go-to place for showing friends old and new how Seattle could play in the big leagues. Sambar, what a classic café/bar. Sadly missed, but so it is in human events.
Sad. But happy for new and wonderful adventures. I will miss the exquisite scent of jasmine while sitting in a fairytale setting, petite croque-monsieur with sharp mustard and the simply decadent cocktails. Thank you for creating such a gem for us to experience. I will always remember your food, drink and ambiance with admiration.
I am so sad to hear this!! Can’t someone buy it? What about Jay?? Where will I get the best gratin in the USA?? Sigh….where ever will we go? What ever will we do??
Charlotte, I am curious what will happen to both space(s) and Jay Kuehner. I’m sure he will have no shortage of great opportunities. I’m more concerned about what will go in at that address; it’s not exactly crawling with foot traffic.
This is truly sad news. Congratulations and good luck to them. They will be missed. Now, where is David going? I’ve followed him everywhere he’s worked?
:-)
We wish for whatever is best for Bruce, but this is sad news for everyone else as Le Gourmand has been the best restaurant in Seattle, period, for the last 12 years that we’ve lived here.
Oh nooo…. this is so sad. This is my favorite restaurant in Seattle… I mean in the world. I am from France. i have travelled a lot but this restaurant… AAaaah !
I remembered thinking “i hope they’ll never close” and i just read the news… I don’t know if i’ll find a restaurant like that again… Good luck to you and thank you !!