Dumplings don’t generally signify luxury like, say, Wagyu or caviar. With one emphatic exception: soup dumplings, whose fragile skins protect contents suspended in tenuous harmony between solid and scalding. Seattle has long loved xiao long bao, Shanghai’s signature soup-filled dumplings. Now, an energetic counter in Bellevue, Xiao Chi Jie, offers a different iteration. Pan-fried instead of steamed, sheng jian bao have slightly thicker, crisped skin. These dumplings are larger—definitely not a single bite—with a yeasted dough that protects the contents without soaking up the pork broth within. For the uninitiated, they’re a fumble to eat with chopsticks, but unlike Wagyu they’re the sort of luxury you can order daily for lunch.