Sitting a bucolic 10 minutes from the Lummi Island ferry dock, along a road fringed with snowberries and rosehips, the Willows Inn offers no hint that it is by many standards the center of the Northwest culinary vanguard. Chef and co-owner Blaine Wetzel is why: a young apple-cheeked kid from Olympia who made his name at Noma in Copenhagen and brought its minimalist style back to marry it with Northwest bounty. And not just the usual suspects, but unusual foraged shoots and herbs, along with harvested vegetables, served in a garden basket whimsically filled with “dirt” of hazelnut crumbles and toasted malt. Spot prawns dredged from the sea out the window, then topped with a tart currant granita with bitter greens from the beach across the road. And oysters of course, perhaps two Shigokus from the bay you saw driving up here, delivered in their smooth, deep cups on a bed of cold rocks beneath tears of that prolific Northwest weed, lemon sorrel. If the ancients slurped their oysters while foraging the forest floor, they tasted this very combination. Over two hours and five courses, you taste all that and much more—at once more avant-garde and more elemental than you can believe, and altogether worth the standing ovation that often spontaneously concludes the meal.