Menu items at Wallingford’s retro-western burger joint have names like Chili Nelson and Folsom Prison Bleu; the decor and soundtrack follow suit. But owner Gary Reynolds (the guy behind Revolver Bar) also appreciates a good SpongeBob reference: The Dirty Dan is a fiery-tart roar of fried jalapenos, torrential queso, and spicy lemon sauce, all within a traditional sesame bun cheeseburger.