Like the lovably daffy neighbor who makes you crazy but unites the community, this charming corner cafe-slash-bakery amid the residences of North Capitol Hill can pain even its hardiest loyalist, with forever-long lines and cramped quarters. Then you bite into ricotta-stuffed caramelized banana brioche French toast, or arugula-ruffled proscuitto-pepper pizza, or a butter-rich chocolate-cherry cookie, or vegetable quiche in perfect flaky pastry—and you’re making plans to come back.