Voila! Bistrot Editor’s Pick

From the arches of its windowpanes to its fir-plank floors, from the embrace of its diminutive dark-wood bar to the creamy unsalted butter on its bare-wood dining tables, Voilà! whispers all its sweet nothings in Gallic dialects. The menu sketches a portrait of the quintessential French bistro—coq au vin, French onion soup, boeuf bourguignonne—and then the kitchen colors it in, with solid renditions that don’t go messing with expectations. A fine salad mingled mild, firm cubes of Tomme de Savoie cheese with apples, walnuts, and the soft caress of butter lettuce; a dish of trout in a lemony butter-almond sauce was quietly right. Voilà! is less a big night out than a gentle night in; the perfect sort of come-as-you-are Sunday-night neighborhood haunt.