If you think Lao food is scarce in Seattle these days, imagine 1992, when plates of phad lao and nam kao, the signature crispy rice salad big on acid and funk, first arrived in this chill Rainier strip mall. A recent remodel shifted the vibe from kitschy to chill minimalism, but dishes still come with platters heaped with fresh greens and herbs, their display as spectacular as the meat and rice they support. Takeout’s great, but dining in means face time with the warm staff.