Oh, to have a place like Union Saloon down the street, with its oversize wooden booths and a vibe that strikes the seemingly simple balance of careful and chill. Calling this Wallingford newcomer a neighborhood bar doesn’t do justice to the food—crisp fried chicken, hearty open-face sandwiches, even housemade chips with onion dip. Just don’t pass up those butterball potatoes, which may occasionally make an appearance during brunch: slightly smashed, very crispy, and cohered in a bright mustard dressing with some spicy sausage.