You could be fooled into believing that a signless restaurant on a quiet street in a nondescript building was your new little secret spot, until you pull open the orange door to find it packed with groups already waiting for their chance at Japanese favorites: expertly sliced sushi, fresh fish specials like, perhaps, black cod in a simple shio broth with vegetables. The homestyle Japanese fare is the reason to go. Bygone dishes such as the chicken gizzard kushiyaki, rice vinegar–marinated smelt, and whole grilled squid are still emblematic of the restaurant’s adept way with simple ingredients. Salty-sweet mozuku seaweed salad. Hearty bowls of curry rice. Crunchy fried pork cutlet with a piquant sauce. Light, lacy golden fingers of tempura. While its lunch hours are no more, the famous shoyu ramen thankfully lives on during Saturday brunch service.