Downtown Kirkland was a pretty sorry place to find yourself with an appetite—until this sleek stunner opened off the lobby of the Kirkland Heathman Hotel. The tagline is "farm to table," which may be the trend du jour, but at Trellis it’s actually meaningful. Here, thick hanger steaks cooked to tender succulence arrive in a sauce electrified with fresh leeks. Homemade ravioli comes stuffed with an herby-sweet winter-squash puree and swathed in a beurre blanc enlivened with powerful bursts of fresh sage and sauteed squash. Chances are the squash, herbs, and leeks were harvested that afternoon, from the chef’s own acreage a few miles north. This earthy orientation lends a homegrown flavor to a classy room, lit with the golden hues of California and ringed by a marvelous outdoor (heated) patio. Great wine list.