It's de-lightful, it's de-lovely, it's de Hunt Club. From the Rosemary Clooney soundtrack to the votive-lit brick-and-mahogany interior, nothing says classic in this town like the Sorrento Hotel's crown jewel. Seattle cognoscenti aim for the sidewalk tables when they want a breezy shot of Amalfi; the beloved Fireside Room, off the Sorrento lobby, when the evening calls for brandy by firelight. But the big-ticket Hunt Club, which in recent years has fallen off the radar after a long moment in the sun, still performs Italian classics and Continental warhorses with eagerness and aplomb. And no shortage of verve, if one recent success—masterfully cooked greenling with fingerling potatoes and braised greens crowned with frizzled leeks and presented in a sweet puddle of riesling sauce—serves as indication.