A few years back, Perfecte Rocher replaced his dining room tables with one long, curving black counter that reflects both candlelight and the desire to reimagine dinner as a one-on-one experience. Now, just 10 people assemble here at a time, in a semicircular arrangement that casts Rocher’s open kitchen as the stage, his progression of Valencian-Northwest flavors the players. Dinner as theater isn’t for everyone, but if you’re into it, these modernist Catalonian riffs make for a pretty astounding meal. Sunday five-course paella dinners offer a more relaxed entry point.