Photography by Olivia Brent
When Linda Derschang sold her most grown-up property, a glassy marvel of midcentury good taste on 19th Avenue, the new owner retained Tallulah’s commitment to vegetables, with a menu section dedicated to beautiful compositions of shishito peppers and eggplant with hazelnut romesco, or beets and ricotta. At booths and tables around the window-clad corner room, beneath floating globe pendants and sweeping sight lines, aging hipsters chat loudly while enjoying refined eggy brunches (chunky corned beef hash with poached eggs, a fine wild mushroom omelet with crispy onion frizzles) and, by evening, deviled eggs, veggie small plates, and some half dozen solidly achieved and healthy mains. Cocktails are creative, “gluten free” and “vegan” are carefully marked on the menu, and a general wave of bonhomie wafts about the room, borne on the goodwill of a genuinely friendly crew. In fine weather, dining spills through double doors onto every neighborhood’s dream of a patio.