Chef Kotaro Kumita’s a minimalist, working with two glass-topped wooden boxes of fresh, raw fish and restrained Edomae sushi sensibility; somehow he knows the perfect tiny flourish—yuzu or a searing wave of the butane torch—to bring out the best in each piece of nigiri. Sushi Wataru’s tiny Ravenna dining room has all of 16 seats, but the best meals happen face to face with Kumita at the modest sushi bar (and involve his omakase).