Oh god, the difference a thigh makes. When Monica Dimas set up a takeout window in the corner of Rachel’s Ginger Beer on 12th Avenue in May 2016, she imported the fried chicken sandwich obsession recently sweeping New York and Los Angeles. Sometimes toppings like crunchy cabbage slaw and pickles camouflage sad, dry, overfried chicken, but not here: Dimas fries thighs, not breasts. Each sandwich contains two pieces, threatening escape from the bun with each bite, but the juicy meat and crispy crust make the extra mess and effort totally worthwhile. The menu balances Southern overtures (fried green tomatoes, hush puppies, pimento cheese) with a beautiful wedge salad and the decidedly nontraditional General Tso sandwich, a spin-off from Dimas’s Neon Taco.