Some people consider Ethan Stowell’s weathered brick dining room in the Kohlstrand Building his most emblematic restaurant, from its vintage charm to the lineup of Northwest-tinged Italian dishes he’s made classics in this town. But let’s be real—we love Staple for that $60 tasting menu, a recitation of family-style surprises: a flurry of appetizers, maybe some fried oysters, a pasta, a main, a dessert. If that’s not your jam, the regular menu of pastas, grilled entrees, and beautiful vegetable creations exudes Stowellian appeal.