A gleaming Capitol Hill dining room with 14-foot ceilings and custom rustic-industrial decor proclaims Isan’s pungent, growing presence on Seattle’s food landscape. Chef-owner Yuie Wiborg is particularly adept with the menu’s piquant grilled meats, like the sliced kor moo yang pork collar. Even neophytes quickly learn to wield hunks of sticky rice like a dipping utensil, and the jerky is funky in the best possible way.