Overstuffed, underpriced grills and melts feel exactly right amid the brick walls, cracked cement floors, motorcycle kitsch, and really loud music. Slightly divey Smarty Pants elevates the humble sandwich to a new status entirely. Like the Gringa, in which succulent pork freshened with lime juice arrives piled on a mayo-slathered, toasted french roll with tomato and lettuce. Or the Lil’ Philly, featuring a grilled mess of roast beef, onions, and peppers, topped with melting swiss, piqued with horseradish, and heaped to heaven inside a toasted roll. Miraculously, the coleslaw and potato salad sides are both fresh and feisty. Even more miraculously, the whole basketful—enough for two regular appetites or one enormous one—costs less than $13.