The most fortuitously located restaurant downtown is a pricey paean to oysters and their briny brethren. In variety and freshness, the place does well by the bivalves, but after that, the catch of the day is your best bet. The rest of the seafood—battered halibut and chips, Louie salads, these sorts of things—varies wildly from overcooked and overcoated to decent. The space, a former haberdashery in the corner of the well-heeled Fairmont, is a gleaming looker—big for business lunches—but cramped when it crowds up. Bring the platinum card.