Eric Banh, whose Monsoon and Ba Bar are very Vietnamese, has opened a visually stunning steak house that isn’t, really, at all. Seven Beef stands for the traditional Vietnamese Beef Seven Ways feast, which comprises the prix-fixe portion of Seven Beef’s menu, and its several dishes fragrantly evoke Banh’s native cuisine with sausages and sweet-spiced congees and herb-topped meats. But mostly Seven Beef is a steak house, starring around 13 cuts a night, competently prepared and served in simple pools of demiglace. If this feels oddly hybridized, these sorts of disconnects live at the heart of this spendy-yet-youthfully-freewheeling house, where side orders of things like beet salads and brandades and sweet potatoes cooked in woodsmoke vary madly but a happy vibe prevails from buzzing bar to flaming grill, all the way up to the timber rafters. They play records!