For a guy who put himself on the map fusing Northwest ingredients and Asian influences, Tom Douglas’s pizza operation has become central to his restaurant group’s identity. Both the Westlake and Belltown locations take their crusts, well, seriously, even before the wood oven bestows its blistery crackle. Toppings like mushrooms with truffle cheese or Penn Cove clams with pancetta and lemon thyme balance ambition and crave factor. Take a cue from T-Doug himself and add guanciale to the Yukon Gold potato pie. Short lists of vegetal starters and memorable finales round out the brief menu.