Nothing here is fancy—not the dining room with its magenta walls and acoustic tile ceiling. Not the signature dish, Peru’s charcoal-roasted rotisserie poultry and golden fries. But man, that chicken is good. It’s hard to bypass that superbly seasoned pollo a la brasa, but the menu of Peruvian staples like ceviche and lomo saltado is endlessly great—and has remained a rocking value over the years.