Russell's
This restaurant arm of a thriving catering concern may be the unlikeliest destination in the region. There it sits, a remodeled white barn in pastoral Bothell, amid industrial office parks, with no discernible signage. Inside, what was clearly designed as a multiple-use staging area for catered events of different sorts may come across as chilly and cavernous, even echoing. (Lunchtime it bustles as a cafeteria.) That said, the meat-and-potatoes dinners at Russell’s are solidly and dependably done, by a real pro. The Russell in question is Russell Lowell (late of the venerated Lowell-Hunt Catering, now Russell Dean Lowell Catering), whose gift is classic preparations—halibut, chicken breast, or a noble filet sauced in butter or a potent reduction, draped over roasted fingerling potatoes, alongside fresh and respectfully treated vegetables. Period. Desserts continue in this stolid vein, but gloriously, as befits any caterer worth his salt.