Like croissants for the working class, the thousand-layer pancakes at this shockingly mauve, eight-table, ultracheap Taiwanese hole-in-the-wall are buttery, rich, and decadent. But unlike any crescent-shaped puff pastry, the dense pan-fried rounds—perhaps only 999 layers thick—accomplish any sopping-up task they’re asked to perform. Order a few with the syrupy honeydew fish fillet, and see why pancakes aren’t just for breakfast anymore.