Ethan Stowell's tribute to the delights of Roman cuisine hit the corner of 15th and Harrison so oldsouled and vibrant it felt essential from its first week. It's urban cozy with medieval notes—stone walls, clerestory windows, warm wood-burning hearth—that strike a winning contrast with the mod mix of Hillsters who pop in for lunch and dinner. They're chewing golden pizza crusts topped with things like charred Padrón peppers, and pickled red onions; they're spreading terrific salted housemade mozzarella and peach mostarda onto crusty toasted baguettes; they're swooning over pastas like the smoky guanciale with chili pepper. Look for big meat plates, Roman-style gnocchi (made with semolina not potato), and a killer fried artichoke appetizer.