Among the tiny shops and solar trash compactors of downtown Bainbridge sits a French bistro, entirely befitting the carriage-house pedigree, brought to us by former Canlis chef and local gastronomic celebrity Greg Atkinson. The space, all receding neutrals and intimate corners, smells of expensive resort vacations—perfume and wood smoke—and tastes of the French bistro canon, unreconstructed. Chicken pate is smooth and velvety and offset with local onion jam; French onion soup is a refined version potent with an extra plug of port, the way Julia did it; moules frites presents the mussels in a classic broth of fennel and Pernod. The excitement is in the ingredients, studiously local, and the perfectionism of a seasoned chef who simply doesn’t make mistakes. Servers, alas, do.